Natural Colorants: Historical, Processing and Sustainable Prospects

Natural Colorants: Historical, Processing and Sustainable Prospects Mohd Yusuf . Mohd Shabbir . Faqeer Mohammad 0 1 2 0 M. Shabbir F. Mohammad Department of Chemistry, Jamia Millia Islamia (A Central University) , New Delhi 110025 , India 1 M. Yusuf (&) Department of Chemistry, Y.M.D. College, Maharshi Dayanand University , Nuh, Haryana 122107 , India 2 Natural Colorants: Historical , Processing and Sustainable Prospects With the public's mature demand in recent times pressurized the textile industry for use of natural colorants, without any harmful effects on environment and aquatic ecosystem, and with more developed functionalities simultaneously. Advanced developments for the natural bio-resources and their sustainable use for multifunctional clothing are gaining pace now. Present review highlights historical overview of natural colorants, classification and predominantly processing of colorants from sources, application on textiles surfaces with the functionalities provided by them. Chemistry of natural colorants on textiles also discussed with relevance to adsorption isotherms and kinetic models for dyeing of textiles. Graphical Abstract Natural colorants; Textiles; Sustainability; Processing 1 Introduction Nature has always dominated over synthetic or artificial, from the beginning of this world as nature was the only option for human being then, and now with advantageous characteristics of naturally derived materials over synthetics giving them priority. Color has always played an important role in the formation of different cultures of human being all over the world. It affects every moment of our lives, strongly influencing the clothes we wear, the furnishings in our homes. In the past, painters had used natural dyes extracted from plants, insects, molluscs and minerals for their paintings. The unique character of their works were the result of using different mixtures of dyes and mordants, as varnishes and lacquers responsible for cohesion of the pigments and protection of the layers destroyed by environmental effects. Natural dyes were also used in clothings, as well as in cosmetic industry (Henna, Catechu), pharmaceutical industry (Saffron, Rhubarb) and in food industry (Annatto, Curcumin and Cochineal) [1, 2]. As now public’s awareness for eco-preservation, eco-safety and health concerns, environmentally benign and non-toxic sustainability in bioresourced colorants, have created a revolution in textile research and development [3–7]. Also, environmental and aquatic preservation aspects forced Western countries to exploit their high technical skills in the advancements of textile materials for high quality, technical performances, and side by side development of cleaner production strategies for cost-effective value added textile products [8]. However, during last few decades, ecological concerns related to the use of most of the synthetic dyes, motivated R&D scholars all over the globe to explore new ecofriendly substitutes for minimizing their negative environmental impacts, and various aspects of bio-colorant applications (Fig. 1). Therefore, both qualitative and quantitative research investigations have been undertaken all over the world on colorants derived from cleaner bioresources having minimal ecological negative impacts [9–13]. Consequently, strict Environmental and Ecological Legislations have been imposed by many countries including Germany, European Union, USA and India [14]. As a result, eco-friendly non-toxic naturally occurring biocolorants have gaining re-emergence as a subsequent alternative through green chemistry approaches with wide spread applicability to textile coloration and other biomedical aspects [15]. This review article is intended to discuss the isolated and dispersed impacts of bio-colorants derived from bio-resources, via significant aspects including, classification, extraction and dyeing, sustainability, Fig. 1 Applications of natural colorants adsorption and chemical kinetics and recent technological applications with future prospects. 2 Historical Background and Classification The archaeological textile research involves the investigation through scientific technologies to detect the chemical composition and, to identify the sources of the dyestuffs used in old textiles. These studies of the colorants used by ancient peoples include a multidisciplinary research, combines micro-analytical chemistry, spectroscopical methods, history, archaeology, botany etc. The dyestuffs applied onto textile materials past civilizations have been examined to investigate the development and technological advancements in textile dyeing through various archaeological periods. In the past decades, researchers are very much benefited from the instrumental analyses of ancient artifacts and colorants were analyzed with micro chemical tests, such as TLC, HPLC, reversed phase HPLC, FT-IR spectroscopy, UV–Visible spectroscopy, X-ray fluorescence, and energy dispersive X-ray (E (...truncated)