Impact on facial rejuvenation with dermatological preparations
REVIEW
Clinical Interventions in Aging downloaded from https://www.dovepress.com/ by 61.101.6.100 on 14-Apr-2020
For personal use only.
Impact on facial rejuvenation with dermatological
preparations
Patrick J Bowler
Court House Clinics, London, UK
Abstract: The treatment options for facial rejuvenation using dermatological, nonsurgical
techniques have dramatically increased in the past 10 years. This follows the introduction of
botulinum toxin and a variety of dermal fillers. The public interest in noninvasive treatments has
changed the market beyond recognition with more physicians involved in providing services to
satiate the demand. The impact on the public and medical profession is discussed.
Keywords: facial aging, botulinum toxin, dermal fillers, combination therapy, cosmetic market
Introduction
Definition of facial rejuvenation
This review is concerned with the concept of facial rejuvenation utilizing dermatological
preparations in a nonsurgical approach. The combination of art and science now provides
physicians with the capability to make the face appear more youthful. Facial aging combines intrinsic or genetically determined and extrinsic factors including sun exposure,
smoking, diet, and general lifestyle. The features of the aging face are well described
and include loss of skin elasticity, lines, wrinkles and dyspigmentation. The management
options are focused on moderating and even reversing some of these changes
The market
There are few reliable statistics in the UK. A Mintel™ report1 stated the number of
cosmetic surgery operations in the UK in value terms had increased from £450 million
in 2005 to £900 million in 2007, a 100% increase over three years. In 2005, this included
230,000 nonsurgical procedures such as Botox™ and fillers which rose to 472,000
in 2007. In the UK, the British Association of Aesthetic Plastic Surgeons (BAAPS)2
produces reliable cosmetic surgery figures but they only relate to its members. It is
not known what percentage they form of the total number of UK procedures. In 2007,
they performed 32,453 procedures, 12.2% up on 2006.
In the US, there are more reliable indicators produced by surgical audits from the
American Society for Aesthetic Plastic Surgery (ASAPS) (Figure 1).
There were almost 11.7 million cosmetic procedures in the US in 2007, of which 18%
were surgical and 82% nonsurgical. From 1997 to 2007, surgical procedures increased
by 114% and nonsurgical by 754%. However in the year 2006–2007 there was only a
2% overall increase. The dramatic increases occurred between 1997 and 2004 with a
leveling off in the past four years (Figure 2). Women account for 91% of procedures, but
significantly men had a year of increase of 17% from 2006. In nonsurgical care, the main
procedures were: Botox™ 23%, dermal fillers 18%, and laser hair removal 14.6%.
Correspondence: Patrick J Bowler
Court House Clinics, 30 B
Wimpole St, London, UK
Tel +44 84 5555 5050
Email
Influences in the market
The main forces in the market place are the written media, TV shows, radio, and celebrity
endorsement and peer pressure. There are many sociological and psychological factors
Clinical Interventions in Aging 2009:4 81–89
© 2009 Bowler, publisher and licensee Dove Medical Press Ltd. This is an Open Access article
which permits unrestricted noncommercial use, provided the original work is properly cited.
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81
Bowler
Clinical Interventions in Aging downloaded from https://www.dovepress.com/ by 61.101.6.100 on 14-Apr-2020
For personal use only.
Number of Procedures (in millions)
11,855,013
8,470,363
11,427,868
11,701,031
12
10
8,251,994
8
6,889,531
5,741,154
6
4,606,954
4
2,772,924
2,099,173
2
97
99
98
00
01
02
03
04
05
06
07
Figure 1 Cosmetic surgery (surgical and nonsurgical cosmetic procedures: totals). Copyright © 2008. American Society for Aesthetic Plastic Surgery.
that influence individual choices, which are beyond the remit
of this review. Magazines often include features on cosmetic
work with prominence given to “celebrities” which may have
an influence on public opinion. In the UK, television series
such as “10 Years Younger” and “Extreme Makeover” have
brought into the comfort of our homes vivid illustrations of
how the worst possible cases can be transformed. Women
and men are under pressure to appear youthful and healthy.
High separation and divorce rates, peers, work and career
prospects all have a significant influence. The increased public
awareness and the Internet are probably the most important
features driving the market forwards.
Demand for nonsurgical care
We are at present in the middle of a minimally invasive,
no downtime, socially convenient, quick recovery, costconscious revolution. The public is seeking easy, pain-free
methods of appearing youthful and healthy without the
problems of invasive cosmetic surgery. This demand has
had significant impact on:
1. Suppliers of dermatological preparations and other noninvasive technology. The pressure to produce new innovative products is high which can lead to premature launches
97
1,126,177
04
9,735,029
05
9,297,731
06
9,533,980
2
4
6
8
10
Figure 2 Nonsurgical cosmetic procedures (millions). Copyright © 2008. American
Society for Aesthetic Plastic Surgery.
82
before there is an opportunity for adequate clinical
assessment. Unfortunately in the EU the regulations
relating to the introduction of fillers are not demanding.
This has led to over 70 filler products being currently
available which causes professional and public confusion.
At this time in the US where there is a more vigorous regulatory approach, there are less then 10 approved fillers.
There are some pharmaceutical companies involved,
Allergan (Irvine, CA), the manufacturer of Botox™ being
a major player. They have recently added fillers, skincare
and breast implants to their portfolio. Others are sure to
follow.
2. For the medical profession in the UK, there is now
pressure to find high standard, independently validated
training courses. The Royal Colleges in the UK have to
recognize the public and professional interest and become
more actively involved in education and training.
3. Governments need to understand the importance of
regulation in order to elevate standards and ensure public
safety.
Differentiation of nonsurgical/surgical care
Up to the 1980s, the famous and privileged were the only
segments of the population considering cosmetic enhancement. The procedures were limited to surgery and deep acid
peels. The introduction of wrinkle fillers and botulinum
toxins heralded the onset of the nonsurgical era, providing
low risk, effective but subtle enhancements.
Present nonsurgical options
Skin care at home
9,621,999
07
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11,368,052
Effective skin care is one of the most neglected areas in
cosmetic medical practice. Although Doctors have been
convinced of the benefits of sunscreens and moisturisers, the concept of ski (...truncated)