Raw Denim as a Means of Communication: Self Expression and Identity

Asian Journal of Media and Communication E-ISSN: 2579-6119, P-ISSN: 2579-6100 Volume 4, Number 2, October 2020 Raw Denim as a Means of Communication: Self Expression and Identity Fadhli Rahmandani & Ratna Permata Sari Department of Communication Science, Universitas Islam Indonesia Abstract Fashion plays an important role in the self-identity formation processes. In this sense, jeans are getting increasingly popular as it has become a trend in fashion. This study examines how raw denim becomes a form of self-expression for its wearer. Applying a qualitative approach, this study has gathered the empirical data through in-depth interviews and observations to an Indonesian denim community called as INDIGO. This study shows that raw denim users have several ways to express themselves as raw denim users. Denim has characteristics that allow for personalization according to one’s body shape, especially the creases and fades that mark the daily habits of the wearer. Denim becomes a representation of the wearers and a way to express their self identity. In order to show that they are a denimhead, one must consider every related actions they take in using raw denim, including joining in a denim community. Keywords: denim, fashion, self expression, identity, Indonesian denim community. Introduction In the beginning of the 1800s Levi Strauss and Jacob Davis made trousers, called jeans, that were mostly used by American gold miners. Those workers liked Levi's work because the trousers are strong and don't tear easily. Levi improved the quality of his product using materials from Genoa, which later known as "Blue Jeans". Levis’s is the origin of denim jeans and the world's first jeans brand. (www.marketplays.id Accessed on June, 22 2019). The world famous designers, such as Versace and Calvin Klein, have made jeans into the high fashion lines with their respective styles. High fashion is one of the terms to mention a currently popular, unique, and attractive mode of fashion. Jeans were very popular in 1995, particularly when they became a symbol of rebellion, portrayed perfectly in the film "Rebel Without a Cause", that featured James Dean. (www.marketplays.id Accessed on 22 June 2019). Fashion plays an important role in selfidentity formation, because identity constitutes one’s characteristics that may be represented by the clothes he/she wears. Hence, from this perspective, one will be more familiar with their social environment when he/she wears clothes representing their characteristics. This makes jeans getting increasingly popular because it has 69 Volume 4, Number 2, October 2020, 69-76 become a fashion trend, besides the fact that jeans are durable clothes. Early 2009, in a forum named Darahkubiru (www.darahkubiru.com), denim became a hot topic of conversation. Darahkubiru is an online magazine, with contents specialized in denim lifestyle, that is created by a group of people who are enthusiastic about denim and all things related to denim. Darahkubiru.com provides an online forum denim lover community which constitutes as the largest community about denim in Indonesia, even the largest in Southeast Asia. Self-identity is more or less influenced by self-image, where in this case clothes have an important role. Therefore, in regard to this view, the researcher discusses denim fashion, because denim has unique characteristics that allow for "personalization". In fashion trend development, denim clothes are increasingly considered as youth clothing. Not only wearing them, these young people are even actively discussing their passion for denim and its lifestyle in virtual communities online. Thus, the problem formulation in this study is how raw denim becomes a form of self-expression for its wearer and what medium they use to express themselves. Method This study uses a qualitative approach with cases study method often used in the social sciences. The qualitative approach will be used as a foundation for building better understanding. Using this method, the researcher will create a detailed picture, try to examine the informants’ explanation from their point of view and obtain information on the real conditions 70 In conducting this research, the researcher shall fully comprehend each theory used in this research and has quite an extensive knowledge to understand the informants’ condition just to get proper context to support a better understanding. make questions, analyze, and understand any information shared by the informants in order to fully obtain data for the research. Researchers will try to approach and understand any information shared by the informants in order to fully obtain data required for the research. Observations, interviews, and document searches will be employed as a means of gathering information. A qualitative research method will be used for this study on fashion among the members of the Indonesian denim community is because exploratory methods, such as in-depth interviews, direct approach, direct observation on informants’ activities, will be used for gathering data. Denim, Communication and Masculinity It seems that today denim users consider that the use value of raw denim is no longer the main requirement in wearing denim, but they are more focused on the sign value. They project their self-image using raw denim, such as male, manly, and gentleman. This makes clothes as something that sticks to its wearer, as shown by denim users’ behavior, such as the idea that denim should not be washed for at least 6 months. While some consider it just a kind of belief, but many of them practice it because they see self-image is a necessity. Thus, they will do everything, including any consensual belief on denim, just to be associated with certain image they would like to project and will perceived such belief as something factual. Fadhli Rahmandani & Ratna Permata Sari, Raw Denim as a Means of Communication: Self Expression and Identity Someone's clothes are an important part of style and trend, that in a communication phenomenon in the words of Thomas Caryle, clothes are referred to as "a symbol of the Soul". Fashion represents who the wearer is. Like the phrase by Eco, "I speak through my clothes" (Ibrahim: 2006: vi). His words convey that fashion is a way to express or communicate himself, to show his identity. According to Barthes (1967), in the study of semiotics, clothes are not only about its function, i.e. body cover, they also produce messages and meanings, the way a language operates. Some people see the way someone dresses (fashion) by using the same point of view. Although, there are many differences, fashion will show many signs that are relatively the same (Hall, 1997: 38). It’s the case currently where the use value of clothes is not the main requirement in wearing clothes, but rather it’s the sign value. Today clothes become more and more full of meaning, that is attached to its wearer. The consumptive lifestyle has changed self (...truncated)