ISLAMIC SYMBOL ON FASHION STYLE USED BY THE STUDENTS OF ADAB AND HUMANITIES FACULTY, UIN SUNAN AMPEL SURABAYA: SEMIOTICS STUDIES

Jurnal Disastri: Pendidikan Bahasa dan Sastra Indonesia Vol. 5, No.1, April 2023 __________________________________________________________________________________ Jurnal Disastri: Pendidikan Bahasa dan Sastra Indonesia Vol 5, No. 1, April 2023 http://ejournal.unhasy.ac.id/index.php/disastri EISSN:2722-3329, PISSN:2716-411X ISLAMIC SYMBOL ON FASHION STYLE USED BY THE STUDENTS OF ARTS AND HUMANITIES FACULTY, STATE ISLAMIC UNIVERSITY OF SUNAN AMPEL SURABAYA: SEMIOTICS STUDIES Abdur Rohman1 , Murni Fidiyanti2 , Zudan Rosyidi3, Nasikul Mustofa Efendi4 , Sodikin5 UIN Sunan Ampel Surabaya Corresponding Author: Abstract Fashion does not only have a function to cover the body, but also it has has a relation to religious values. This research aims to describe the Islamic value towards the style of student fashion at Adab and Humanity Faculty, UIN Sunan Ampel Surabaya through semiotics study. The theory that used in this research is Ferdinand De Saussure's structuralism. It analyzes on syntagmatic, paradigmatic relation and context as the background. Descriptive qualitative is used in this research by semiotics concept. The data were taken from the picture of the students’ fashion and the questionnaire that is filled out by the students. This research results show that 60% of students fashion based on Islamic value. In contrast, 40% of them did not wear Islamic fashion style. It is because the students need more understanding of Islamic fashion rules. Keywords: Islamic Symbol, Fashion Style, Semiotics. Article history Received: 16-03-2023 Revised: 18-03-2023 Accepted: 23-03-2023 Published: 07-04-2023 INTRODUCTION Dressing is not just putting on clothes to cover the body but has functions related to cultural and religious values. Nowadays, dressing follows the model or style according to the era; for example, the style of dressing in the 1970s differs from the 1980s model. However, it could be that the 1970s style of dress reappeared recently. Changes in clothing styles are not only for non-Muslim clothing styles (not covering the aurat) but have developed rapidly in Muslim clothing styles. Muslim fashion style is a cognitive manifestation of Islam and culture. Cognitive means making Islamic teachings and culture as a blueprint or guide for the community in dressing. This means that clothing is not only related to the form or concrete form of clothing but also related to the rules and concepts of clothing. It is very clear that Islam refers to the Qur'an and hadith as a guide in dressing. Several suras in the Qur'an that discuss how a Muslim should dress, namely Surah An-Nur: 31, Al- A'raf: 26, and Al-Ahzab: 59. The rules are ____________________________________________________________________________________ Islamic Symbol on Fashion Style Used … | 99 Jurnal Disastri: Pendidikan Bahasa dan Sastra Indonesia Vol. 5, No.1, April 2023 __________________________________________________________________________________ not only in the suras of the Qur'an but also the hadith which reads "When a woman has reached puberty, she should not show her limbs except her face and wrists (H. R. Ath Thabari). Another Hadith also says "Verily, when a woman reaches puberty, she should not show any part of her body except her face and the palms of her hands (H. R. Abu Dawud). In addition to these traditions, there are still many traditions that relate to the way a Muslim dresses, namely H. R. Muslim, H. R. Ibn Hibban, H. R. Ahmad, H. R. Bukhari, and others. From these sources, it is clear that a Muslim woman must cover her aurat. These two sources, namely the Qur'an and hadith, are the sources of the rules of dress in Islam. The rules of dress in Islam are known as the concept of covering the aurat. Islamic law defines aurat as a part of the body that in principle should not be visible except in an emergency. Covering the aurat is obligatory for every Muslim when performing worship and interacting with fellow humans (Munawwir, 2002: 984). Clothing styles are also tied to principles in the culture of a particular society. One example is the Javanese who have the concept of the clothing philosophy "ajining rogo soko busono". The value of an individual lies in the clothes that are attached to him. Islamic religion and Javanese culture both place clothing as a parole and langue of the wearer's identity so that the concepts of parole and langue in this case are applied not only to the concept of language where according to Saussure langue is the totality of a set of facts of a language inferred from the memories of language users and is a repository of language that exists in every individual. Langue exists in the brain, not just abstractions and is a social symptom. With the langue, a speech community is formed, namely a community that agrees on grammatical rules, vocabulary, and pronunciation while parole is the use or realization of langue by each member of the language community. It is concrete because parole is nothing but a physical reality that differs from one person to another. In short, langue is a system or rule while parole is a concrete object. These two concepts can be extended to the use of fashion. When connected to the use of fashion, parole is the form of clothing while the concept that surrounds the clothing is langue so it appears that the relationship between parole and langue is interrelated. Apart from being related to the concepts of parole and langue, style of dress can also be related to other language concepts, namely syntagmatic and paradigmatic. Ferdinand de Saussure first introduced the relationship between syntagmatic and paradigmatic. He said that the syntagmatic relationship is the relationship between the elements in an utterance arranged sequentially and linearly. At the linguistic level, syntagmatic relationships exist at the level of phonology, morphology, and syntax. For example, at the level of phonology, phonemes in the order /b,u,n,g,a/, if the phoneme order is changed, the meaning will also change or even be meaningless. What is meant by paradigmatic relationship is the relationship between elements contained in an utterance and similar elements that are not contained in the utterance concerned. This means that elements in a word can be exchanged with elements in another word to produce a different meaning. For example, at the level of phonology, the phonemes /b,s,k,/ are found in the words book, tribe, and nail. If the syntagmatic and paradigmatic relationships are applied to the concept of dress, then the syntagmatic concept is in the integrated relationship between the parts of clothing worn, for example for women there is a headscarf, shirt, pants or skirt, and shoes or sandals. In the case of the hijab alone, it can include turbans (inner hijab), safety pins (buttons), brooches, or other accessories. If the elements of one another are combined into one, there will be harmony in Muslim dress. Another case is if the element of jilbab is replaced with (...truncated)