Evaluation of Shampoo by Quality Control: Review

Vol 4, Issue 2, 2022 (267-276) http://journal.unpad.ac.id/idjp Evaluation of Shampoo by Quality Control: Review Arnita Annisanur*1, Ida Musfiroh2 1 Pharmacist Professional, Faculty of Pharmacy, Universitas Padjadjaran 2 Department of Pharmaceutical Analysis and Medicinal Chemistry, Faculty of Pharmacy, Universitas Padjadjaran Submitted : 04/07/2022, Revised : 14/08/2022,, Accepted : 24/08/ 2022, Published : 12/09/2022 Abstract Shampoo is a product that is used to clean hair from dirts and also for specific therapeutic objectives such as conquering dandruff and hair loss. Product evaluation is a step that cannot be avoided to ensure product quality, including shampoo. As stated in the Good Manufacturing Practice guidelines, in the process of releasing product, the quality control in pharmaceutical industry must guarantee that the appropriate tests have been performed. The purpose of this review is to determine what attributes need to be evaluated in shampoo preparations. Datas for this review were obtained from national and international scientific publications published in the last 10 years using websites such as PubMed, Science Direct, and Springer. The keywords used in the search process are shampoo, evaluation of shampoo, types of shampoo. Final number of articles that used are 50 articles. Based on the search results, it is concluded that the evaluation of shampoo preparations consisted of testing physical appearance, homogeneity test, pH, solid content, viscosity, cleansing ability, and others. Keywords: Shampoo, quality control, products evaluation. 1. Introduction Hair is a part of the body that serves both decorative and protective functions. Hair has decorative functions since it can improve people's look and protective functions because it shields the head from impacts and other disruptions (1). Because hair is the body's outermost layer, it is impervious to the damaging effects of sun exposure, pollution, cosmetic components, and other cleansing agents. Therefore, hair’s health is important and inextricably linked to everyday bodily care. The commonly found hair problems are dandruff and hair loss (2). Dandruff is a common skin ailment that affects about 50% adult population globally (3). Signs of *Corresponding author, e-mail : (A. Annisanur) dandruff are excessive redness, itching, and scalp exfoliation (4). Meanwhile, hair loss is a dermatological condition that is influenced by physical and psychological stress (5). Shampoo is one of the most commonly used cosmetic products in daily life to treat the scalp and hair (6). Shampoo is a product that contains a surfactant in an appropriate form (liquid, solid, or powder) to clean the hair shaft and scalp of oil, dirt, and skin debris (7). The primary principle of shampoo is to clear the scalp from sebum and other contaminants, however shampoo can also be used for medicinal purposes, which is known as therapeutic shampoo (8). Shampoos are categorized into numerous categories according on their specialized https://doi.org/10.24198/idjp.v4i2.40492 © 2022 A.Annisanur et al A. Annisanur et al / Indo J Pharm 4 (2022) 267-276 tasks, including general-purpose shampoos, conditioning shampoos, anti-dandruff shampoos, baby shampoos, and dry shampoos. Shampoos are generally made as solutions, emulsions, liquids, creams, pastes, gels, and others (9). One of the duties of quality control is to carry out a releasing procedure that ensures that all relevant tests have been carried out, therefore a test is required to ensure that the quality formed from the start of the product production process is maintained until the product is released (10). Therefore, the shampoo must be evaluated beforehand, which consists of visual assessment, measurement of pH, viscosity, wettability, and others (11). 2. Method The method used in this Literature Review is to search through Google on the web as the Science Direct (Elsevier), Springer, PubMed. The data sources used are scientific books and national and international journals published during the last 10 years. The keywords used in the search process are shampoo, evaluation of shampoo, types of shampoo. The inclusion criteria are articles about type of shampoos, formulation and evaluations of shampoo while the exclusion criteria are articles about formula optimization and articles that are not meet the criteria needed. Number of articles found according to keywords n = 115 articles Inclusion criteria n = 50 articles Exclusion criteria n = 65 articles Figure 1. Flowchart of methodology 3. Result Hair is an important element of the body that serves as an indicator of health. Hair is made up of three parts: bulbs, roots, and stems that are lodged in pilosebaceous follicles in the dermis. The hair bulb is the deepest end of the hair and is related to the dermal papilla, which is rich in innervation and vascularity thus provides nutrients for hair growth (12). The hair root is firmly attached in the hair follicle, which is placed between the hair bulb and the epidermis' surface. On the outside, the hair root and shaft are composed of three equal concentric layers: the medulla, cortex, and cuticle. The medulla is the center core of the cortex, which includes the hair's largest and thickest part (13). The cuticle is a layer that is highly resistant of overlapping dead cells by forming a protective barrier against the external environment and external aggressions. The cuticle made up by endocuticle and exocuticle (14). Normal cuticles have a smooth appearance, allow light reflection, and prevent friction between hair shafts, and are important for the luster and texture of the hair (12). Shampoo is a hair care product that cleans the hair and scalp. Shampoo is typically offered in the form of a thick liquid and also, although not commonly, in powder form. The ultimate goal of using shampoo 268 A. Annisanur et al / Indo J Pharm 4 (2022) 267-276 is to get rid of the unwanted impurities that have accumulated on the hair and its antimicrobial properties will prevent infection of the scalp without exfoliating much of sebum or making the hair unruly (15). Shampoos are made up of 10-30 components that are categorised according to their different activities. These ingredients include cleansing agents called surfactants that remove sebum, conditioning agents that promote softness of the hair, active compounds that treat certain disorders like dandruff, and additives like preservatives that help to the product's durability and comfort. Every ingredient is tested, approved, and is listed on the product label (16). As a pharmaceutical preparation, shampoo must be evaluated to ensure that the quality that is built into the product is as required or intended. The following tests are used to evaluate a shampoo preparation: 1. Physical appearance/visual assessment Examine the preparation's shape, fragrance, and color (17). 2. Homogeneity test The presence or absence of coarse particles i (...truncated)