Development of An Eco-Shampoo Formulation Using Local Environmental Plant Extracts for Healthy Hair as an Effort to Increase the Potential of Environmental Resources

Biology, Medicine, & Natural Product Chemistry Volume 12, Number 1, April 2023 | Pages: 399-405 | DOI: 10.14421/biomedich.2023.121.399-405 ISSN 2089-6514 (paper) ISSN 2540-9328 (online) Development of An Eco-Shampoo Formulation Using Local Environmental Plant Extracts for Healthy Hair as an Effort to Increase the Potential of Environmental Resources Dwi Atmanto*, Neneng Siti Silfi Ambarwati Department of Cosmetology, Faculty of Engineering, State University of Jakarta, Jakarta 13220, Indonesia. Corresponding author* Manuscript received: 08 February, 2023. Revision accepted: 28 May, 2023. Published: 20 July, 2023. Abstract This research aims to develop an eco-friendly shampoo formulation (Eco-Shampoo) by adding local environmental plant extracts for hair health. This research method is a quasi-experimental development of existing shampoo formulations (base formulations) by adding local plant extracts such as aloe vera (Aloe vera L.) and lemongrass oil (Cymbopogon citratus) in three formulations. The resulting shampoo products were then carried out two evaluations, namely the stability test (organoleptic test), foam height observation, viscosity test, pH test, and preference test (hedonic test) by consumers to determine the feasibility and effectiveness of using shampoo. After a storage period of 2 days showed a Stability test, slightly changed color, constant odor, and texture did not change and the pH value was between 5.5 - 6.5. The smear test on the back of the hand and the skin behind the ear did not show skin irritation, whereas the hedonic test, 10 consumers stated that the color was like, the smell was stated like, and the texture was stated quietly. Aloe vera fraction and lemongrass oil can be formulated as a shampoo preparation to maintain hair fertility as well as an anti-dandruff shampoo. Keywords: Eco-shampoo; Formulation development; Health hair; Local environment; Plant extracts. INTRODUCTION Indonesia is a fertile country and has various types of plants. The soil is fertile and the rainfall is sufficient for various types of plants to grow and develop (Arifin 2006). Plants are biological natural resources that can be managed to become a source for the establishment of industries such as the pharmaceutical industry, the food industry, the metal industry, the animal feed industry, the plastic industry, and the cosmetics industry. Several plants have been developed to treat hair problems, one of which is aloe vera and lemongrass leaves. Empirically, aloe vera leaves are used by the community to nourish their hair by using the inner gel of the leaf flesh (Ariyani et al. 2009). Likewise, lemongrass leaves are taken through extracts used by people for anti-dandruff hair treatment. Hair contains an important role for every human being. This is because hair can affect a person's appearance (Filbert 2014). The number of hairs on the human head is about 100,000 strands (Hotmauli 2010). Even though hair has natural hair loss, for some people, hair loss is still a worrying thing. Hair loss can occur due to several factors such as age, hormonal disorders, pregnancy, drug use, continuous sun exposure, and lifestyle (Doughari 2006). To overcome hair problems, intensive care is needed, such as using shampoo, hair tonic, hair mask, hair oil, vitamins, and others. Environmental factors that have been polluted in urban areas can disrupt hair health. Air or water impurities that hit the hair of the head will cause dandruff. Dandruff is a dry form of seborrheic capitis known as seborea sika (dry), which are dry, fragile, easily detached scales that stick to cover the epidermis of the scalp (Arifin 2006). One of the causes of dandruff is fungus on the scalp, which is dirty due to sweat, sebum (oil) glands, and dust. The fungus that develops on the scalp is called Pityrosporum ovale (Ariyani et al. 2009). Symptoms of dandruff mainly include itching, flaking, and redness of the scalp. This fungus is naturally found on the scalp and can attack humans of all ages. Many anti-dandruff shampoos contain antifungal compounds such as sulfur, salicylic acid, selenium sulfide, and zinc pyrithione which have the effect of damaging the scalp and causing hair loss (Trueb 2007). Therefore, there need to be other alternatives, especially natural ingredients that can be used as anti-dandruff. Lemongrass (Cymbopogon citratus) is one of the essential oil-producing plants. In Indonesia, this species is usually used as a mixture of herbs and spices because it has a distinctive aroma like lemon (Boonme et al. 2011). Lemongrass oil is one of the most important types 400 Biology, Medicine, & Natural Product Chemistry 12 (1), 2023: 399-405 of essential oil. This essential oil is used to produce citral which is the main constituent of lemongrass oil. Lemongrass oil is a pale yellow liquid that has a strong lemon smell due to its high levels of citral (65% to 85%) making it the most important ingredient in the pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries (Saputro 2009). The main constituents of lemongrass essential oil are citral (3,7-dimethyl- 2,6- octadienal), a mixture of geranial (trans-citral A), and neutral (cis-citral B) with small amounts of geranium, geranyl acetate, and monoterpene olefin ((Pooja et al. 2009). Among the plants that can be used as hair, growers are aloe vera. Aloe vera is very effective for hair care because it has a composition similar to keratin, an important hair protein, and complex amino acids identical to hair follicles so that it can rejuvenate hair with the same nutrients, especially the content of the amino acid L-lysine which can help in growth hair (Limbani et al. 2009). According to Daisy (2011), the main elements of aloe vera liquid are aloin, emodin, resin, gum, and other elements such as essential oils. In terms of nutritional content, aloe vera leaf gel or mucus contains several minerals such as Zn, K, Fe and vitamins such as vitamins A, B1, B2, B12, C, E, inositol, folic acid, and choline (Potruli et al. 2011). Aloe vera is also a natural remedy that helps regulate the rich blood supply to the root hair follicles on the scalp, thereby helping to strengthen hair (Pooja et al. 2009). Treatment using traditional medicine today is very popular and is increasingly favored by the community. This is because affordable prices are easy to obtain and also have relatively few side effects (Naitullah et al. 2004; Pan et al. 2009). In addition, Indonesia is also the second mega biodiversity country after Brazil, where it is estimated that there are 30000 species of living plants in the Indonesian archipelago and at least 9600 species are known to have medicinal properties (Robinson 1995). The cosmetic industry in Indonesia developed around the 1950s. Previously, traditional cosmetics had developed among kings in Java (Mahataranti et al. 2012). The Indonesian people at that time developed a complex of local plant ingredients that were used as powder, shampoo, and herba (...truncated)